Gel Manicures: A Complete Guide

We get overconfident whenever we arrive home from the nail salon with our manicures intact. However, as predictable, our ego takes a hit when the polish chips as soon as we do our first load of dishes. Gel polish is our only hope.

When gel manicures first hit the salon menu, they became an instant phenomenon because they're as quick and durable as car paint. The promise of a shiny, chip-free paint job that'll last for two weeks is why we typically opt for gel whenever we treat ourselves to a salon manicure (although at-home gel kits are available, too). Still, a gel manicure isn't without its faults, specifically related to its drying process and potential damage to nails — but are these allegations warranted? To find out more, we tapped professional manicurist Sarah Gibson Tuttle and dermatologist Dr. Joshua Zeichner.

Meet the expert

Whether you're a diehard gel fan or just tired of ruining your polish when you reach in your bag for your phone, keep scrolling for our expert-approved guide to gel manicures.

What Is a Gel Manicure?

Like your run-of-the-mill mani, a gel manicure starts with cutting the nails, lightly soaking the hands, trimming the cuticles, and a thorough hand-cleaning. The polish itself is where things get different: you'll start with a base coat layer that primes your nails for the gel, which is a special kind of polish that, instead of air-drying, sets under a UV light. After each coat is painted on, you place your hand under a UV light for 30 seconds. The technician will finish things off with a glossy topcoat that's also set with a UV light.

The Benefits

Stacked against a regular manicure, gels last longer, feel stronger, and stay shiny. For those of us who are impatient and maybe a little clumsy (raises hand), the quick drying process will ensure you don't smudge your fresh set. Also, anyone can get a gel manicure, whether you have natural nails (long or short) or prefer to use tips.

How to Make Your Gel Mani Last

Generally, a gel manicure can hold up two to three weeks. Just like with your regular polish, how you treat your hands post-manicure and throughout those two weeks will make a big difference in staying power. "If the gels are not chipping, leaving gel polish on for two to three weeks is fine," said Tuttle. "But like with all lacquer, breaks between manicures are a great way to ensure your nails stay strong and healthy."

The Cost

The price of a gel manicure can vary depending on where you live and the caliber of the salon you're visiting. Typically, you can expect a gel manicure to be priced $5 to $10 more than a regular polish manicure. Because it's a process in itself, salons may charge for removal. Some salons do it free with the price of your next manicure, but it can cost up to $20.

How to Remove

Taking off gel polish requires time, patience, and no picking. Whether you're getting gel taken off at the salon or DIY-ing it at home, here's how to remove a gel manicure: First, cover each nail with an acetone-soaked cotton ball, wrap some aluminum foil around each finger to hold the cotton in place, then let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes. The polish should slide off the nails without any filing or scraping. For any stubborn spots, a wooden stick can be used to ease it off gently.

How to Avoid Damage

One of the biggest myths about gel manicures is that they're bad for your nails. In reality, how you remove gel polish can be damaging. "More often than not, it's the removal process that's weakening your nails," explained Tuttle. 

She noted that a lot of salons rush through the removal process. 

"The nail bed shouldn't be filed or buffed to get your gels off," Tuttle added, as that's how cracks and rough texture can happen. "It's not always easy to spot right away because clients often follow gels with more gels or polish."

If you're removing gels yourself, the one thing you should never do is pick or peel the polish off. It's a surefire way to cause damage, and it can mess with future manicures. 

"Picking off your gels removes layers of your nail along with it. Plus, it makes it harder for future polish and gel to stay on," said Tuttle.

Tuttle recommended applying cuticle oil between appointments to keep the area hydrated and healthy. Not only will this protect the skin around your nails but also your actual nail beds.

Risks and Safety of UV Light

The major criticism of gel manicures is that the UV lights you put your hands under to set the gel polish can cause premature aging and put you at a higher risk for skin cancer. It turns out there is truth to this. 

"The ultraviolet light emitted from these dryers is actually much stronger than what you would get from sun exposure," said Dr. Zeicher. "UVA light is responsible for both skin aging and the development of skin cancers. If you are going to get gel manicures, it is important to apply sunscreen to your hands for protection."

Gel vs. Acrylic Nails

Considering cost, maintenance, and the health of your nails, gel manicures seem to win over acrylics. Although acrylics allow you to alter your nail shape and length and don't require UV lamps to cure, compared to gel nails, they require more upkeep and come with a heftier price tag.

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